<William> We really enjoyed our stay in Varanasi, a city or pilgramage for many Hindus. It doesn't really have a lot of sights to see, which means that you're less likely to be disappointed from raised expectations. However, the city really has an amazing atmosphere about it and you can see some pretty weird & wonderful things from walking up & down the ghats (steps leading down to the Ganges river).

The main ghats as seen from the river
Prayer rituals performed after sunset along the ghats

At one place there is a crematorium where people are burned on open log fires then thrown into the river. However, holy people, children or pregnant women just have their dead bodies thrown directly into the river where they become exposed where the river is shallow and birds peck at the corpses and rats run up for a nibble. Just a few yards down from there, people swim in the river and drink the water untreated in an act of faith to cleanse the soul!

Today we have been visiting the Taj Mahal which is really quite a sight - lives up to all expectations though the heat is quite a problem - my brain was pretty warped after 4 hours in the midday sun (playing with the mad dogs). We were pretty unimpressed with the 'rules and regulations' surrounding the Taj though. You're not allowed to take any food or drink (except water) in and you can't buy anything in there, but your ticket (which costs a tenner) doesn't allow you to go out and come back in, which means if you want to make the most of the day you have to go hungry! Also, it was pretty annoying that they don't allow camera tripods inside, after we took a 1 hour journey back to the train station (left luggage) to get the tripod!! Still, all the hassles were soon forgotten once inside - it's amazing just how stunning it looks even though it's 400 years old. Built entirely from white marble, inlaid with black marble detail it's weathered well and all the carvings are still pristine and the colour untainted by pollution or time.

The Taj Mahal

Maz in front of the Taj Mahal

We're in Jaipur at the moment, the capital of Rajasthan - the desert state. You know it's the desert state because there are camels wandering through the streets, even in rush hour traffic jams! The pollution (3 times WHO limits) can be choking, but once out of the city there are some great sights to see - palaces and forts on hilltops around the city. Inside the city there is some excellent shopping to be done in the bazaars and arcades in the old city. Unfortunately our backpacks are full to bursting so we'll be trusting our shopping to the indian postal service - here's hoping it makes it home!

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